Heritage: Lena’s Chicken Shkvarky (Crackling Spread)

A rectangular clear glass container with still-hot chicken shkvarky (the fat is not yet set) sits on a black background.

I seriously could not think of a better debut recipe for my new blog series which I first talked a little bit about this in an Instagram post a few weeks ago. Heritage:Upgraded will feature Whole30-compliant and Paleo recreations of the Russian, Ukrainian, Ashkenazi, and Jewish-American cuisine of my heritage and my childhood. Some of these will be dishes I grew up with, some just cultural classics, but this one, my Aunt Lena’s шкварки (shkvarky), this is like the holy grail. Plus it’s paleo, keto, and Whole30-compliant too.

Traditionally made with pork, Ukrainian Jews took to chicken for a more Kosher-friendly version of this scrumptious crackling “jam”. Chicken skin, chicken fat, and onions are all you need for this slow-cooked crispy madness. You may also have heard of this referred to as gribenes, but in my house it’s always been shkvarky.

It’s been on the menu at Portland-local Kachka a few times, but when I’m really missing my fam, I want it homemade. I’m still working on the paleo blinchiki to pair with this, but in the meantime, it’s pretty perfect on eggs, veggies, and anything else you want to schmear crispy chicken skin on.

A lowered opacity image of Russian alphabet books. Text overlay reads "Keto Ukrainian Chicken Shkvarky"

I did not succeed in finding a butcher willing to sell me just skin and fat, so I instead purchased eight bone-in skin-on chicken thighs and used the meat for other dishes.

One medium stainless or cast iron pot (this is an excellent dual set)
One medium stainless or cast iron pan
Very sharp knife
Ziplock bag or storage container
Storage container

8 chicken thighs (skin and fat only)
1 large onion
Salt, to taste
Freshly ground pepper, to taste

A rectangular glass container full of cooled chicken shkvarky (the fat is fully set and white), on a black background.

Note: Admittedly, chicken skin is a difficult medium to photograph, so I have not shown as many of the in-between steps for this recipe as I typically try to share. Just be patient and it will be worth your while.

Using a very sharp knife, remove skin and fat from your chicken thighs. Be sure your cuts are clean – you want virtually no meat here – cut away any meat that may have tried to come along for the ride.

Put skin and fat in a plastic bag or storage container, and freeze for 30-40 minutes. You don’t want anything to be frozen solid, just a little harder so it’s easier to cut.

With a very sharp knife, cut the skin and fat into thin strips and then cut those strips into pieces. According to my aunt, you want pieces around the size of a woman’s thumbnail. Too small and they will shrink away into nothing, too big and they won’t get crispy. In my first attempt, I made the pieces a little too big, and you could clearly identify those pieces in the pot as they were just getting rubbery instead of crunchy and delicious.

Pre-heat your pot on the lowest setting. Maintaining the very low heat, cook the skin and fat for about 1.5 hours, stirring occasionally. You want it to get nice and crispy.

About 30 minutes into cooking your chicken, pre-heat the second pan (also on the lowest setting). Cut the onion so that the pieces are of similar size to the skin and fat.

Add about 1 tbsp of the rendered chicken fat from your pot to the pan. Add the onions. Cook on lowest heat until “dark golden” and crunchy.

When you are satisfied with the cook on both your chicken and the onions – we are looking for golden, crunchy, and all the fat rendered – gently mix the two together.

Remove to a heat-safe storage container. Do not drain the fat.

Refrigerate overnight then store in the freezer until needed. Due to the high content of chicken fat, it won’t take long at all to defrost from the freezer (and that’s the “classic” way to store it). Just pull it out a few minutes before you plan to indulge!

A white plate with steak and cauliflower gnocchi cooked with chicken shkvarky. The plate sits on a black background.
Tossed with piping hot cauliflower gnocchi (and some leftover steak)
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One comment

  1. Yana Vinogradov

    Looks excellent! Want it now!


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